When you think of Mexican food, what springs to mind? Tacos, jalapeños, hot sauce, right? You’d be correct, but there’s so much more to explore. Mexico is vast, and each region boasts a completely distinct cuisine.

Enter Oaxaca, the culinary capital of Mexico.

Here, you should forget everything you think you know about Mexican food. Oaxacan cuisine is entirely unique. With vibrant flavours and traditions deeply rooted in culture, it stands apart. The national dish, mole, for example, has many varieties, and each household adds its own twist to this complex recipe.

Here we explore Oaxacan dishes you absolutely must try. Prepare to get hungry.

Tlayudas

The first thing we ate in Oaxaca and, let’s be honest, it was love at first bite. Walking through the bustling Mercado 20 de Noviembre, we spotted these gigantic, pizza-like creations gracing tables around us. Tlayudas are enormous, crispy tortillas loaded with refried beans, lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, Oaxacan cheese, and usually topped with your choice of meat like cecina (thinly sliced pork) or chorizo.

We enjoyed ours with tasajo (thinly sliced beef). What makes tlayudas so special is the smoky flavour imparted by the grill. Fast forward through our Oaxacan journey, and we found ourselves returning three times just for these at Comedor Chabelita; a must-try!

Other suggestions:

Comedor Típico La Abuelita
Tlayudas La Chinita

Memelas

Memelas are our ultimate comfort food. These thick, round corn cakes are smeared with lard, topped with refried beans, Oaxacan cheese, and your choice of toppings—often a bit of salsa, nopal (cactus), or meat. For us, there’s only one place to truly experience them: the legendary Doña Vale in Central de Abasto Market.

The flavours at Memelas Doña Vale are unbeatable, and her memelas are so incredible that we dedicated an entire blog post to this spot. There's something about the simplicity of a memela that just captures the heart of Oaxacan street food. If you want to know why we’re obsessed, check out our full review here.

For something closer to town, have a walk around Masea Trigo y Maíz and indulge in their fresh memelas, straight off the comal. You can also indulge in pastries and atole here—all under one roof.

Tamales

You can't visit Oaxaca without trying tamales. Here, tamales are often wrapped in banana leaves rather than corn husks, and they come filled with all sorts of surprises: mole, chicken, pork, or rajas (chillies).

Each one is like a little parcel of flavour waiting to be unwrapped. The Oaxacan version of tamales is often softer, moister, and more flavourful, with the mole filling being a definite standout. Try them at a local morning market with a cup of hot atole—there’s nothing quite like it.

Mole

Mole is the dish of Oaxaca, a labour of love that sometimes combines more than 30 ingredients: chillies, nuts, spices, chocolate—you name it. There are several varieties of mole, but our favourite has to be Mole Negro, with its dark, rich, smoky profile. We were lucky enough to take a cooking course and learn how to make it ourselves at Cocina Oaxaqueña de Sonia (booked via AirBnb). We also enjoyed some unforgettable mole dishes at local eateries.

Another cooking class on our list was at La Cocina de Humo, which we will be sure to visit next time we’re around.

For more popular Mole options, check out:

Empanadas de Amarillo

These empanadas are not your typical flaky pastries; they’re made with a thick, hand-pressed corn dough, filled with Amarillo mole (a yellow mole sauce), and often a bit of cheese or meat. The Amarillo mole has a bright, tangy flavour thanks to the chillies used, and the empanada itself is cooked on a comal (griddle) until slightly crispy. Our favourite empanadas were found in a tiny stall just outside Mercado 20 de Noviembre, a simple yet unforgettable bite.

We’d recommend:

Empanadas del Carmen - As seen on Netflix’s “Street Food: Latin America”

Quesadillas with Courgette Flower

Quesadillas in Oaxaca are a revelation. Unlike the folded tortillas you're used to, here they’re made with freshly pressed blue corn masa and stuffed with a range of fillings, including flor de calabaza (courgette flower), mushrooms, and that glorious Oaxacan cheese. There’s something magical about the slightly floral notes of the courgette flower combined with the rich, stretchy cheese. It's the taste of Oaxaca in its simplest form.

Empanadas del Carmen

Tacos

Think you know tacos? Think again. In Oaxaca, tacos are elevated to an art form. Picture fresh, hand-pressed tortillas filled with barbacoa (slow-cooked lamb) or tacos de tasajo, featuring grilled beef and topped with guacamole, onions, and coriander.

There’s also tacos al pastor, with marinated pork shaved off a spit, garnished with lime and a hint of pineapple. Every bite celebrates Oaxacan maize, making each taco a unique experience that goes far beyond the typical street food you've had before. For the best experience, try them at Lechoncito de Oro—it’s where taco dreams come true.

More taquerías to get stuck in to:

Taquería El Compadre J.R
Tacos de Cazuela del Carmen Alto
Chefinita (tostadas, pozole y tacos)
Lechoncito de Oro
Tacos Del Carmen

Oaxacan Cheese

Oaxacan cheese, or queso Oaxaca, is a delightfully stringy cheese with a texture reminiscent of mozzarella but with a flavour that's uniquely rich and slightly salty.

It’s everywhere—from tlayudas to quesadillas—and for good reason. We loved it so much we found ourselves daydreaming about sourcing it in the UK. It adds creaminess without overwhelming the other flavours—a true supporting star.

Chapulines

Chapulines (grasshoppers) are definitely not your everyday snack, but they’re a quintessential part of the Oaxacan food experience. Toasted with garlic, lime, and salt, they offer a surprising burst of umami, a crunchy texture, and yes, a lot of protein. They’re often sprinkled on guacamole or even used to garnish tlayudas. We hesitated at first but were pleasantly surprised—they’re much tastier than you’d imagine. Give them a go, and you might just find a new favourite snack. You’ll see these being sold on the streets or in abundance in the markets.

Pan de Muerto

This traditional bread is typically enjoyed during Día de Muertos (‘Day of the Dead’) celebrations, but if you're lucky, you might find it year-round. We were in Oaxaca for this celebration, so we enjoyed many! Soft, slightly sweet, and topped with sugar, pan de muerto (‘bread of the dead’) is perfect alongside a cup of hot chocolate. For more on our favourite bakeries in Oaxaca, have a read of our guide.

Enjoy yours at Pan Con Madre.

Pozole

Pozole is a hearty, hominy-based stew that’s comfort in a bowl. In Oaxaca, it's often enriched with shredded pork or chicken, and seasoned with fresh herbs, lime, and a sprinkle of dried oregano. You’ll find both red and green pozole varieties, each with its own distinct spice profile. Topped with crunchy cabbage, radishes, and a squeeze of lime, it's the perfect dish for when you want something warming and full of flavour. Grab a bowl from a bustling market stall and experience this classic Mexican dish done the Oaxacan way.

Chefinita (tostadas, pozole y tacos)

Oaxacan Drinks to Try

Atole

Atole is the ultimate comfort drink—a warming blend that’s part porridge, part hot chocolate. We enjoyed ours at La Atolería, a beautiful spot offering flavours like chocolate (champurrado), cinnamon, and vanilla. It’s housed in Masea Trigo y Maíz. The thick, creamy texture is perfect for chilly mornings, and it pairs wonderfully with tamales. A true hug in a mug.

Tejate

Tejate is a cold, foamy drink made from roasted maize, fermented cacao, and flor de cacao. It has a unique, almost floral taste that’s incredibly refreshing. Imagine a cold hot chocolate, but earthier, with layers of complexity. Many market stalls serve this Oaxacan speciality, often scooped out of large clay bowls. Don’t miss out! We enjoyed ours at the market at a stall called La Flor de Huayapam.

Mezcal

It goes without saying that mezcal is a must in Oaxaca. Unlike tequila, which is produced primarily from blue agave, mezcal can be made from different types of agave, resulting in a vast range of flavours. We discovered our favourite mezcal at a local mezcalería, but the best way to try it is to wander through the markets and sample as you go. The unlabelled bottles are often the best—straight from the source, with no frills, just pure smoky goodness.

Don’t miss Los Amantes Mezcalería; a small, intimate place where you’ll find a Mexican man with his guitar in the evenings.

Check out:

La Mezcaloteca - book for mezcal tastings
Sabina Sabe

Pulque

Pulque is an ancient beverage with deep roots in Mexican history, and in Oaxaca, it’s still enjoyed as a link to the past. Made from the fermented sap of the agave plant, pulque has a slightly viscous texture and a mildly sour, yeasty flavour. It's often referred to as the drink of the gods, and you’ll find both traditional, unflavoured pulque as well as curados—versions mixed with fruits like pineapple or guava for a sweeter twist. Served cold and fresh, pulque has a unique taste that’s unlike anything else. It’s certainly an acquired taste!

Final Thoughts

Oaxacan cuisine is unlike anything you may have imagined when you first thought of Mexican food. It's rich, diverse, and deeply rooted in tradition, with each dish telling a story of its own. From the crispy tlayudas to the complex moles, the comforting atole to the daring chapulines, there's an endless array of flavours to explore. So, the next time someone mentions Mexican food, let your mind wander beyond the usual tacos and hot sauce.

Make sure to check out our Instagram highlight of Oaxaca (and more) @thehungrysoles to get a better feel of our time in Oaxaca!