Memelas Doña Vale - Oaxaca, Mexico
Our Rating: ★★★ | ££££ - Outstanding, just go! (How we rate restaurants)
If you’re ever in Oaxaca and looking for a true taste of the region, Memelas Doña Vale is an absolute must-visit.
Nestled in the bustling Central de Abastos market, this unassuming spot serves up some of the most incredible Memelas you’ll ever try.
The breakfast of dreams!
The food here is simply amazing. Each Memela is perfectly grilled, generously topped with fresh cheese, beans, and your choice of succulent meats or other local toppings, and served with a dollop of their signature salsas.
The star of the show, though, is the Morita Salsa. Smoky, spicy, and with a depth of flavour that’s hard to describe, the Morita salsa takes every bite to the next level, adding just the right amount of kick to each Memela. It’s the kind of taste that makes you want to keep coming back for more.
**We talk more about Morita Salsa at the bottom of this post**
We recommend going for the Phil Special and an extra Memela per person as a minumum.
One Phil special plus an extra Memela each
Doña Vale’s Memelas are a testament to traditional Oaxacan cuisine—simple, flavourful, and made with love. The rustic setting only adds to the charm, letting you savour a truly local experience far away from the touristy frills. If you’re in Oaxaca, you won’t want to miss the magic happening at Memelas Doña Vale.
Details
Instagram: @memelasdonavale
Abasto Market, enter using gate 6, you will still probably get lost. Don’t dress flashy.
Cash only
Open every day except Sunday, from 7am to 12pm, but check their Insta as they do shut sometimes.
Be prepared to queue for up to an hour at busy times
Thing to get: The Phil special!
Map
Memelas Doña Vale Menu
What are Memelas?
Memelas are thick, oval-shaped corn cakes that are similar to tortillas but slightly thicker, allowing them to hold a variety of toppings. They are typically cooked on a comal, giving them a satisfying crispiness on the outside while staying soft in the middle.
Once cooked, memelas are often spread with lard or refried beans, and then topped with quesillo (a local cheese), grilled meats like tasajo (thin-cut beef), or even fried eggs. The finishing touch is a spoonful of salsa—like Doña Vale’s famous morita salsa—which adds a burst of smoky, spicy flavour.
About Doña Vale
Doña Vale, whose full name is Valentina Hernández, hails from San Mateo Rio Hondo, a small pueblo in Oaxaca. It’s here, in the heart of Oaxaca’s largest market, that Doña Vale has cooked every day for over 30 years.
Long before her appearance on Netflix's Street Food Latin America (Season 1, Episode 3, "Oaxaca, Mexico"), Doña Vale had already been featured in culinary books, with chefs from around the world coming to taste her food and document her skills. Despite the fame, she remains grounded.
For her, it’s about creating something delicious and traditional, representing the culture of every state. The simplicity of memelas, topped with lard, quesillo, tasajo, or eggs cooked on a comal, is what makes it so special.
You can also watch Doña Vale on Somebody Feed Phil (Season 3, Episode 4 “Oaxaca”)
Getting to Memelas Doña Vale
Memelas Doña Vale is located in Central de Abastos, Oaxaca's largest and most vibrant market. Doña Vale is signposted from the gates, but there is still a high chance of getting lost. Here's how to find your way:
By Foot: If you’re staying in the centre of Oaxaca City, you can easily walk to Central de Abastos. It’s about a 20-30 minute walk from the Zócalo, Oaxaca’s main square. Follow signs or use a navigation app to head towards the southwest of the city.
By Taxi or Ride-Share: The easiest way to reach Central de Abastos is by taking a taxi or ride-share (like Didi). Simply tell the driver you're heading to Doña Vale in "Mercado de Abastos," and they’ll drop you off near the main entrance. From there, you’ll need to make your way through the bustling stalls. Ask for "Doña Vale" or "las memelas" for directions once inside.
Make sure you agree a price before starting your ride (it should be 50-100 pesos from Oaxaca)
Navigating Central de Abastos: Central de Abastos can be overwhelming, as it's an enormous market filled with countless stalls. Once inside, ask for Doña Vale's stand by name, or mention "memelas." Her stall is quite famous, so many vendors know its location. Although if you don’t speak Spanish it can be tough!
Since the market is always busy, try to visit earlier in the day to avoid the crowds. Doña Vale typically starts in the morning, and draws a crowd quickly.
Safety in Central de Abastos
Before visiting Central de Abastos, we were put off by several locals who warned us about the market's reputation for being unsafe. Many mentioned they themselves don’t go there, which made us a bit apprehensive. However, our experience turned out to be completely fine.
The market is indeed massive, sprawling with stalls selling everything you can imagine—from food to household goods, clothing, and even livestock. It's a place where you can get lost amidst the sheer variety of items and the lively, chaotic energy. The narrow walkways can be quite cramped, with people in every direction, which makes it essential to stay aware of your surroundings.
As with any busy market, being savvy is key. We made sure to follow a few basic safety tips: we kept our valuables close, avoided being flashy with our belongings, and stayed mindful of our surroundings. As long as you stay alert and take sensible precautions, you should be absolutely fine. Central de Abastos may be overwhelming at first glance, but it is an incredible place filled with authenticity, and our time there was well worth it.
Morita Salsa and Morita Chiles
Morita salsa is the smoky, rich essence that adds an unforgettable depth of flavor to every bite of Doña Vale's memelas. Made from Morita chiles, this salsa carries a delightful balance of smoky heat and fruity undertones, making it the perfect complement to the simple yet delicious toppings on the memelas.
Morita chiles are essentially smoked, dried red jalapeños, smaller and softer than their cousin, the chipotle, yet still packing a distinctive punch of heat and complexity. Their unique preparation gives the Morita chile a deep, rich flavour that infuses every spoonful of salsa with an earthy, robust smokiness. It's no wonder that Doña Vale's Morita salsa has become the star of her Memelas, transforming each simple ingredient into a vibrant and memorable taste experience.
Recreating Doña Vale’s Morita Salsa at Home
After our incredible experience at Memelas Doña Vale, we were inspired to try recreating her signature Morita salsa at home. The result was a flavourful, smoky salsa that brought back the taste of Oaxaca with every bite. Morita chiles are key to this salsa’s rich depth, they provide that earthy smokiness and gentle heat that makes it stand out.
We’re in the process of writing up our own recipe, so stay tuned. If you want to get your hands on it now then subscribe to our newsletter here and give us a shout and we’ll send it your way!
And yes, we used Morita chillis from Oaxaca as well as a Molcajete that we picked up from Abastos Market.
